How it Works

Here we supply parts you can use to DIY your own bedding.  We can do all the sewing and washing and cutting or you can do those tasks yourself.

You can visit us in either Lafayette, IN (an hour northwest of Indianapolis) or in Brooklyn Park, MN to see all these products and to try out the different firmnesses of latex.

fancy line


To make a mattress, pick out a fill (wool flake or natural latex or both wool batting and natural latex) and pick out a presewn ticking, which is a zippered shell or case (either quilted or knit or expandable knit. In our supplies section, you will find patterns and fabric to sew your own ticking. Common combinations of mattress making supplies are listed here.

To get an overview of common types of mattresses built from our supplies and how to assemble them, click on each ticking’s link below to see the possibilities as well as pros and cons for each build.

Quilted Ticking, AKA “The Simplest Method” or “For Longevity”

Knit Ticking, AKA “The Budget Method” or “For Latex Purists”

Twill Ticking, AKA “The Durable Method” or “For the DIYer”

To see a full explanation as well as complete assembly of a mattress in just 20 minutes, watch this video.


To make a pillow, pick out a fill and cases. They are sold separately or in kits.



Finished wool toppers with our farm wool are available.

To make a lofty wool topper, visit our supplies page to find the pattern and fabric to use. We also supply kits with fabric, pattern, tufting needle, twine and optional zipper closure.

Natural Latex

To make a latex topper, pick out a slab of latex (usually soft or medium firmness) and pick out a ticking or visit our supplies page to find a pattern and fabric to use.


Finished wool comforters with our farm wool are available.

To make a comforter, decide how many batts of wool you want, then visit our supplies page to find a pattern (COMING) and fabric to use.  A comforter and a topper are similar and use the same supplies, but you’ll probably use only 2-3 batts of wool for a comforter and the pattern displays a knife edge instead of box corners.


You can buy a finished wool blanket made with wool grown, spun and woven all by small businesses in the US or you can buy the blanket fabric by the yard and make your own custom sized blanket.


You can buy a finished organic needle felted wool puddle pad (with serged edges and elastic straps) or you can add the finishing touches.

To make a wool puddle pad, decide how many yards you want of our 90″ needle felted wool. You will get to cut the fabric to size, serge the edges yourself and add elastic corner straps if you like.

33 thoughts on “How it Works

  1. Is there a store we can go to – to evaluate?

    1. We have two showrooms that you can visit, one in St. Paul, MN and the other in Lafayette, IN. Our contact info is on the contact page here:

      1. I only wished you had a store or outlet in NYC…maybe one day, right? I suggest any borough other than Manhattan i.e Brooklyn, The Bronx, Queens or Staten Island . Manhattan commercial rents are way too expensive.

        1. Maybe someday. We would need someone who has space and time to host a showroom and is interested in learning all the nitty gritty details about the products. If you’re interested, contact me

  2. What firmness layers would you suggest for a twin sized bed for a toddler?

    1. Typically children pick a medium firmness for themselves and adults choose a firm firmness for them. For more info on firmness, check out The Banana Test post.

  3. Hello. I’m looking to purchase a double size mattress when I stumbled
    across this sight. I was going to purchase a bed from this name brand company
    And after watching your video of how easy it is to purchase and put together my
    own I would like to try it.

    1. Great! Let us know if you have any questions during your research.

  4. Is the latex talalay or dunlap slabs

    1. We work with Dunlop processed latex.

  5. Can your products be used for a queen futon mattress or topper? I live in Florida and as you know it is very hot and humid. I want to use the mattress at a camp house which will be closed for extended times in the summer months. Can you advise as to which product would be best and how to take care of it? Thank you.

    1. Yes, definitely. Latex is very flexible and makes great futon mattresses. Because of its weight and a futon’s upright position, people usually use some sort of gripper underneath it or a support on the bottom of the frame to keep it from sliding. The soft and medium layers of latex works great for a topper. We also sell finished wool toppers and wool topper kits where you can make your wool topper.

      Both latex and wool mattresses are typically used on top of slats, in climate controlled environments. This configuration allows the air to move freely around the latex, letting any body moisture or humidity evaporate. I have not heard any reports from my customers of latex being used in such an environment. I have had one customer in a tiny house who did not leave her ventilation running and a customer who lived in a yurt (frozen grounds, combined with body moisture) find that their latex did not survive well without a constant air flow.

  6. making my own pillows–using shredded latex, kapok and woolies. Need it to be firm and high loft for king size. How do I pick firm latex from your shred selection. Also how much do I need of each to get the firm and loft I want?

    1. The best way to get a firm and lofty pillow is to overstuff it. We include 5 lbs. of shredded latex in our standard size, enough to create a very plump pillow. If you desire more height, you can always buy more fill. You will find Our shredded latex is a mix of firmnesses of latex; to pick a specific firmness to shred by hand, visit our fall off section.

  7. I watched the video with the lady making a mattress for her son and I am very interested. I am building a tiny house and unfortunately the way I have things set up the area the bed will go in is to small for a regular queen size bed and I dont want a twin size so I figured I could just make a mattress myself so I googled and voila your page came up. What is your advice as to how to make a mattress that will give full support to a large person? Easier to find a mattress that lasts a long time when you are a small person but they tend to wear out quickly for a larger size person. I would like a very firm mattress and I like the idea of the wool. Any help would be appreciated

    1. Email the DIY Natural Bedding owner. She will answer and she is very helpful!

      1. Thank you much for the kind words! We are happy to help and converse about ideas as much as you need.

    2. Firm mattresses no matter your size is not a problem. For one, we have firm layers of latex (named hard and extra firm) that are great for base layers for softer mattress and excellent as firm support all around. In fact, I have had people express elation to find such a firmness as our hard piece of latex as they were not able to find that density anywhere else. Large bodies generally do not appreciate the softness of either a soft or medium piece of latex as they will sink right through them. Firm, Extra Firm, and Hard are the layers to look at.
      In addition to choosing the firmer layers of latex, consider the depth. As I say in The Banana Test, for every 100 lbs of body weight, consider 3″ of latex. For example, a 300 lb. person should consider a minimum of 3 layers of latex. Firmer combinations of latex can get away with less layers than a softer combination. In other words, a medium, firm, extra firm, hard, might give as much support as a firm, hard, hard.
      Wool is also a great way to build a firm mattress, either an entire mattress with our wool flake (compare it to an extra firm piece of latex) or some wool batts layers on and around your latex. See the Twill Ticking link on our How It Works page for a simple diagram of how to make a wool mattress.
      One last note is in regards to mention of a tiny house. It is very important in such small spaces as tiny houses and RV’s that your ventilation is kept running to avoid humidity collection in the latex or wool. I also highly recommend a slatted base as opposed to a flat board to allow excess body moisture and humidity a chance to escape from your mattress.
      I see your comment went unnoticed for a while. Sorry about that. Email us directly with more questions:

  8. What is an inner case?

    1. And also, what is an outer case?

      1. The outer case is a pillow case designed to encase your inner case and the fill. It is convenient to have your inner case holding your fill so that you can wash this outer case without messing with your fill. The outer case is sewn with a thick, soft fabric which adds a nice touch to the pillow and can be slept on directly. Two cases are not necessary, though they are convenient.

    2. An inner case is a pillow case designed to do the job of containing your fill. We make ours out of a sateen fabric, which is a thin, smooth, sheet-like fabric.

  9. Hi, my wife and I are looking to replace our Sealy king size extra-firm inner coil mattress due to sagging. We want to try a hard or extra-firm latex. What latex slab combination do you recommend that would roughly match the firmest new Simmons Beautyrest 13.5″ Platinum series? Specifically it is the Phillipsburg III Extra Firm King which is the firmest in the beautyrest line. We tried that one at a showroom and love the firmness. But we want latex. I want to go on extreme firmer side and if it turns out to be too firm I think we can add a less firm latex topper if need be in the future? Thanks and would love to hear your opinion for a really firm combo!

  10. What is the outer and inner case used for?

    1. The outer case is a pillow case designed to encase your inner case and the fill. It is convenient to have your inner case holding your fill so that you can wash this outer case without messing with your fill. The outer case is made with a thick, soft fabric, which adds a nice touch to the pillow and can be slept on directly. Two cases are not necessary, though they are convenient.

      An inner case is a pillow case designed to do the job of containing your fill. We make ours out of a sateen fabric, which is a thin, smooth, sheet-like fabric.

      1. Ok got it. Thanks!

  11. I’m interested in making a traditional shikbuton 50×90 my preference is 100% wool. Any idea how much wool batting and other supplies would be needed for this? I currently use a pad some gave me for a mattress approx 100x90x2 1/2 folded in half putting it at 5in in cushion. Not sure what kind of pad it is. My other option would be a to make a cover to encase what I am currently using.

    1. How thick do you want it? That detail will make all the difference in quantity of wool. In general, consider each layer of wool 1/2″ thick, though it does compress a bit over time. If you want 5″, I would suggest starting with at least 12 layers of wool. You would want to purchase the wool by the yard, keeping in mind that each layer for you is just about 1 1/2 yards. Instructions of tufting techniques to keep the wool from slipping are here as well as a list of supplies and pictures here.

  12. Hi. I am designing the inside of a van conversion and plan on having a “hidden bed”, in which I will have a small twin-sized bed that will extend to become a small full-sized bed (using two equal-sized mattresses, one on top of the other in “couch mode”). My concern is that when sleeping on the full-sized bed, I will feel the crease in the middle where the two twin beds meet. Is it true that I will feel the crease and if so, how can I alleviate feeling it? I will be using the bed when in twin size as a couch with the other mattress underneath it, having it covered with a decorative comforter or blanket with matching throw pillows that makes it look like a couch. I am hoping that I can simply put twin-sized fitted sheets on the mattresses and be able to slide the top one off the bottom one when putting it in bed mode. I hope I am making sense! 🙂

  13. Hi, We purchased your DIY ticking (the best one you have [quilted-zippered] I think it was $595 for king at the time) a few years back, maybe 3, 4 or 5 years, can’t remember. My point is, it has been great. My only suggestion would be to let us know which side is length and width. In an Eastern King, 76×80, it’s reallly hard to tell. Also would have loved handles sewn into the sides. Sometimes we have to scooch it just a bit to center on the bed. Other than that, love your product. Would definitely recommend this to anyone who is interested in a bed that’s not from a box store. One that you know what’s inside.
    Best of holidays to you and your family.

    1. Hello Pearl, Thank you much for your note. You are right, the 4″ difference between the top/bottom and the sides is very slim. The easiest way to know how to put on the ticking is to remember that it opens like a book, with a spine or unzippered bit on the left. Handles would definitely make moving the mattress easier. However, I wonder how the knit fabric would hold up with the weight of 150 lbs. of latex pulling at its stitching. I think a woven fabric would hold up better for handles. Happy holidays to you too!

  14. Hello, I recently purchased shredded latex and kapok fiber from you to fill out sagging couch pillows. How much of each do I use? Is it 50/50? Also, I assume I fluff the kapok first. Do you have any tutorials for filling the pillows or is it as easy as mixing the two together in a large bag and then transferring that to into inner case? Thank you!

    1. The balance between kapok and shredded latex is up to you. If you want more bounce, choose more shredded latex. If you want more fluff, choose more kapok. The kapok will help the shredded latex retain its position in the pillow and the latex will weigh down the kapok. To calculate percentage, enter your dimensions into our pillow fill calculator to come up with a 100% full number, then do some mathing to balance out your desired feel.

      Yes, filling the pillow is as easy as mixing prior to filling or even straight into your case.

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